Amber in perfumery
When we talk about amber in perfumes, we’re talking about a fantasy note — an accord — that gives a fragrance a warm, full, and sensual character. The amber accord can vary from perfume to perfume, but a classic example often includes cistus labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin.
This amber note can be the main focus of a perfume, creating a warm and full-bodied scent, but even a hint of it can add depth to a fresh floral composition. And when combined with spices like pink pepper, sage, or mint, a warm amber base can be transformed into something fresher and more vibrant, adding a lively, spicy twist to its richness.
Top amber perfumes at Perfume Lounge
What is the difference between amber and ambergris?
Sometimes amber is confused with ambergris. So what’s the difference between the two? The main distinction is that ambergris is a single, natural perfume ingredient, while amber in perfumery is an imagined accord.
Ambergris originates from the intestines of a small number of male sperm whales. It forms as a reaction to the sharp squid beaks that end up in the whale’s digestive system. A waxy, cholesterol-like substance builds up around these beaks and continues to grow over time. Eventually, the whale excretes the material into the sea, where saltwater and sunlight harden and age it. The result is ambergris — a gray, stone-like substance that can sometimes weigh several tens of kilograms and may wash up on beaches around the world.
Because ambergris is so rare and prized for its unique properties, it commands extremely high prices. Often called “floating gold,” it is ground into powder and made into an extract or tincture for use in perfumery. High-quality ambergris has a beautifully complex scent profile: little to no top notes, but a deep, lingering base that is warm, salty, sensual, sweet, animalic, and musky.
Due to its rarity, cost, and animal origin, perfumers today often turn to synthetic alternatives such as Ambroxan: a lab-created molecule that captures much of the smooth, radiant warmth of natural ambergris.
